It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. Been using mine for about 2 months. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. The main body of the Giga Jul … Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. 18 Jun, 2019. This is a public discussion in World. Very complicated - very German! Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. The most versatile ever belay device. The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. We hope that this is ok for you. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. You are not part of this discussion. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. Thanks everyone for the comments. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? 121 grams. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. no shipping costs. Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). I watched the review above, and comments etc. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Keylock Drawback. Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Using with an Edelrid Strike. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Keylock Benefit. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. Single rope, half rope, double rope. The most versatile ever belay device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. including�16% VAT. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. Public discussion Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. Easier than a grigri. Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. The most versatile ever belay device. Thanks. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. I'd like to hear your views. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. , I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. Buyers Guide. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Edel The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Please note that these values are only meant as indications. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. Great to see that you guys responded.