Accessibility. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. Doesn't seem fair to downgrade the device for the seller's mistake in the headline wording--this is actually the Alpine ATC Guide. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Passive locking provides extra security and takes pressure off your belay hand, Doesn't feed smoothly - you have to keep a lot of pressure on your thumb, limited use and functionality. With an oval-ized anchor hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Most devices can accommodate the full gamut of rope widths—the ubiquitous Black Diamond ATC-Guide, for example, can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8.7-10.5mm. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The place Canadians trust for outdoor advice. Here is where we were underwhelmed with the performance of the Pilot. Description Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Only until Dec. 1. Pros. All trademarks property of their respective owners It’s back! bdatc Black Diamond ATC Guide (7.7 mm to 11 mm): $24.95 Disclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge. There's little to no slippage like you experience from the tube style devices, and should you get knocked around in the fall you can be reasonably sure that the mechanism will engage completely. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. There are grooves on one side. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. It also has a relatively small profile, so weight and bulk are no reason not to consider owning one. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. It lasts longer than 30 days, but not forever. Really. We'll be fair about it. You'll find real-world experience, decades of outdoor knowledge, and exceptional products that won't ever let you down. Because of variances in rope diameter, belay carabiners, and friction from quickdraw placement or route wandering, it is hard for us to say for certain when or how this device is likely to creep, though it mostly happened in gym scenarios with little friction in the system. Unlike tube-style devices, where you have to loosen your grip on the rope for it lower, the Pilot requires you to pull back on the device to disengage the camming function. The sizing spring inside is signed WEBB PLAT 18K. An 18K yellow gold bracelet with twisted rope design and 25 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 3ct total approximate weight of overall F/G color and VVS2/VS1 clarity. The market is large and the offer is even larger. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. In-store pick-up is free. Introduction I’ve lost count of the number of belay/rappel devices I’ve lost, worn out or simply decided the time had came to pass company. The Smart 2.0 (left) and ATC Pilot (right) have a similar weight and size. Auto devices are especially fussy when it comes to rope diameters. Let us know! The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. A versatile belay/rappel device with a guide-mode for bringing up 1 or 2 seconds. This handsome, black enamel twisted rope design, features a platinum, pave dome in the center, set with assorted round brilliant cut diamonds weighing an approximate total of 2.00ct. If it’s not working out, you can return it (consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded). Auto block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Recommended for use with 8.1 to 11mm diameter ropes. Only 4 left in stock - order soon. Anti-panic handle, top rope and lead modes feed smoothly, wide range of rope diameters (8.5 - 11mm) Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm. The plastic housing feels comfortable in the palm of our hand with or without gloves on. Order online, get it at your local MEC and pay no shipping. BD states that the Pilot should only be used with larger Type H or HMS carabiners, and always on the larger side if using a divided carabiner like the Gridlock. Compared to the original ATC Guide, the Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide accommodates skinnier ropes so you can alpine climb with twin ropes a little easier. We preferred the top-roping action on this device thanks to it's smoother lower vs. the Mammut Smart 2.0. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Even then, examining the picture the device is clearly marked with the applicable rope sizes. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. A super light belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond act-sport is a simplified, single-rope version of atc-xp. The ring is a size 5 1/2, and gross weight is 18.3 grams. It is a bit of a one-trick pony though, and you'll likely get more versatility out of a device that can handle two ropes. The Pilot required more thumb pressure than others we compared it against (and more constant pressure throughout a belay) to get the rope to pay out smoothly. The MEC logo is a registered trademark of MEC Canada Inc. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image, out of 5 stars with 12 reviews for Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device, Now or never: shop last chance deals up to 60% off. Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. It will likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other. We're all members here. Designed for sport cragging. If we were solely choosing one of these passive belay devices for top roping, we'd choose the Pilot since we liked how it lowers the best. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Found a better deal in Canada? The Black Diamond Big Air Pilot belay device package combines the security of the ATC Pilot with the strength and durability of a GridLock carabiner. $148.46. All rights reserved. Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC belay device provides lightweight yet durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. When it's time to lower the climber, you need to lift up the lever and tilt the device back towards you. Oval anchor-hole feeds rope easily when in guide mode. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … You have to exert upward pressure with the thumb of your brake hand to "unlock" the device while pulling out slack with your other hand. So I would actually recommend you get the Black Diamond ATC-XP and RockLock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this combo. Black Diamond makes a guide-mode ATC—known as the ATC Guide, as well as a lighter version called the ATC-Alpine Guide, shown here, meant for alpine climbing and smaller-diameter ropes. The machined windows for 30% lighter weight. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide and ATC-Alpine Guide conform to the safety requirements of EN 15151-2, Manual Braking Device, Type 4: device for belaying and abseiling with a function to adjust friction. 5. This "passive" assisted braking device is like a cross between a tube-style device and one with a moving cam inside it. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. As for rappelling, Black Diamond doesn't say that you can't do it, though it would only work for single rope rappels, which is not always useful. If we weren't constantly pushing the device out to the maximum amount, it would start to lock up on us. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or … Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. CON #4 – The handle is hard plastic which would not be as durable as stainless steel. Black Diamond 9.9mm is a — wait for it — 9.9 mm rope.Black Diamond chose to forgo names for their rope line and use their diameter instead, which is a useful means of distinguishing their ropes but doesn't help create an iconic brand. Got feedback? CON #3 – A climber review noted a slight slippage with small diameter rope such as 9.4 Edelweiss and 9.2 BD rope. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. Oval anchor-hole feeds rope easily when in guide mode. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. It provides the same function as the ATC above with additional features. All diamonds are set in white gold, and are of E/F color and VS1/VS2 clarity, for a total approximate weight of approximately 8.5 ct. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Who is Black Diamond ATC Pilot For? As Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Either way, Black Diamond makes good gear and I highly recommend. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Read more, Privacy policy It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. If it’s identical, brand-new, in stock, and sold and shipped by a Canadian-based retailer, we’ll match that price. Choose ropes that meet The Pilot feeds out slack in a similar manner as most other passive assist devices. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... this very informative instructional video. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. Black Diamond ATC-XP. 4. It couldn’t be easier. Hot forged aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it light. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. It still transcends the tube/auto-blocking category, allowing for a standard belay as well as belaying one or two climbers off anchors. 3. That’s why when you look at the device, you’ll notice there’s room for only one strand of rope rather than two like a standard tube-style device. This belay device is an ATC with XP which stands for extra power. Weight 36 grams. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. While this device is not particularly expensive, especially when compared to the cost of most active assist belay devices, it is also not as cheap as regular auto-block or tube-style devices. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. We liked the catch on this device and felt like it provided almost the same security as the active locking devices. Black Diamond ATC Guide . Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe Plus, you can always add friction with a tube-style device by running the rope through two carabiners instead of one. The BD ATC Pilot is great for people who are looking for a lightweight assisted braking belay device. Terms of use Material on GearLab is copyrighted. If you are looking for a device that can do this, the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. (We still remember the name of our first rope from 25 years ago, and what do you know, the Beal Booster is still in production.) We liked the lowering function of the ATC Pilot better than the other passive assisted braking devices we compared it to. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. © 2020. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a "geometry assisted" belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. The curved plastic housing on the Pilot was more comfortable to hold onto than the sharp metal edges of other devices, and the rope stayed in the shorter track better. The Pilot has a distinct look and function. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the device's guide mode lets … Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Versatility in the build also allows for a slightly larger range of rope usage than other belay devices currently on the market, allowing the black diamond to handle ropes from 7.7mm right on up to thick, 11mm rope. The bite on the Pilot is created by the device changing its orientation and "pinching" the rope against the carabiner. Shop with confidence. A superlight belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond ATC-Sport is a simplified, single-rope version of our ATC-XP. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. Description. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? GearLab is reader-supported. The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Found a better deal in Canada? We did encounter some creepage one or two occasions, though we found it tough to replicate them. The Pilot is likely to wear out your carabiners first before itself, unless the plastic turns out to be fragile over time and cracks. If you see a lower price for this exact item advertised online, in print or in a store, give us a call at 1 (888) 847-0770. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, Works best for toproping scenarios, a good choice for gyms or programs who want a bit more safety than a traditional tube device but don't want to buy mutiple active locking devices. How can we improve GearLab? Order online, get it at your local MEC. Most, if not all, belay devices lock the rope off statically in a fall. The ATC Guide Belay Device is already worthy of any climber's arsenal, but Black Diamond made it even better for alpinists and crag-stars alike. The Pilot is not made for belaying a second off an anchor, so we could not test or rate it for this category. Spend $100, get $10. In this photo, the pinch was secure with a 9mm rope in an outdoor scenario when used with a Gridlock carabiner. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. Lightweight, single-rope version of ATC-XP. The last few years have seen the release of several new or updated "passive" assisted locking devices, including the. The ring also features twisted rope strips accenting the four diamond plates, blending into the shoulders. Tested by APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS - CS 60193 13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16 France. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed climbers can belay with it the "opposite" way if that feels more natural to them. We felt like we needed to push out with our thumb continuously when using this device, which was fatiguing. The Pilot weighs 3.2 ounces (same as the ATC Guide) and doesn't take up much room in your pack. These grooves add more friction to the rope to slow down and stop the rope easier. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. Black Diamond built the ATC Pilot as a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors. Recommended for use with 8.1 to 11mm diameter ropes. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 9 mm to 11 mm. Free shipping on orders over $50. Excellent device for my alpine rope (9mm) and there's even a way to use it as an ascender (search online). If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a "geometry assisted" belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. Inside Circumference 6 14 inches Presently the ring is size 6 1/4, but the sizing spring allows it to come down in size if necessary. As sport climbers, our most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying so this was our winner. If it's not up to snuff after you use it (a couple times) you can still bring it back. The Winner: The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the most pleasant to use, and immediately felt instinctive. Black Diamond 9.9 Mm Climbing Rope 4.8 out of 5 stars 82. Alpinists reveled in rappelling, belaying, and using the ATC's guide mode so much that Black Diamond designed its classic belay device with a lighter, more compact device. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. The maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter that is compatible with the device. Updated construction cuts weight to 80g and enhances rope handling ; Dependably and smoothly handles 8.1-11mm rope diameters in all conditions ; Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes ; Guide mode works with 1 or 2 climbers ascending and descending ; Autoblock release hole accepts small carabiners ; Imported. The Black Diamond ATC’s housing has been purposely created with strategically placed openings in order to make this belay device lighter than most, coming in at just under 4 ounces. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Some other devices didn't require as much exertion. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. Use an autoblock device with a locking carabiner to belay off the anchor or to bring up two seconds on independent lines.