Black Diamond released its first ATC (Air Traffic Controller) in 1998 and since then many brands have re-used the same design in slightly different variations. The ATC Guide 2018 is technically retired but it's still sold online. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. We're showing it as "available" on WeighMyRack because you can still find it at trustworthy online retailers. The rope that is going to the climber should be on the top of the belay device. Customer Rewards points earned with this item . Slowly move your brake hand back closer to your guide hand. An enlarged auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Release hole: This is an opening to insert a carabiner for lowering a climber. View Basket . Most ATCs have 2 rope slots which allow them to belay half or twin ropes. Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Black Diamond Guide BT; Black Diamond Guide BT manual (1) give review - … The high friction side is useful in several situations: In some cases, if you are using a thicker rope, you may find the friction too high on the high friction side. Frame: This is the main body of the belay device. Video: Belay device ATC with self-locking function. View the Black Diamond Guide BT manual for free or ask your question to other Black Diamond Guide BT owners. Making sure that the rope is in brake position, grab the brake strand with both your hands. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. one that leads to the climber – be careful, at that moment the symbols cease to apply). Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? That causes pressing of the top strand threaded through the belay device against the bottom strand and thus its pinching. The brake position is at 180 degrees. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. This is Part 1 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series:Part 1: How To Belay With An ATCPart 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification TestPart 3: How To Belay A Heavier ClimberPart 4: How To Belay From AbovePart 5: How To Set Up Top Rope Anchor. EUR. Every climber will start off with learning top rope belaying. This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. There is also a guide mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. Continue to lower by repeating steps 2 and 3. All manual belay devices use simple friction to stop the rope, allowing a bit of slack to a falling climber. Click & Collect. Click & Collect. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. Upper strand will upon the loading press against the bottom strand and block him against movement. Protection of the second with the self-locking function. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power wh Your other hand (the guide hand) will be holding onto the end that’s leading to the climber (I’ll call this the climber’s strand). For the regular ATC, the design is symmetrical and it doesn’t matter how you slot the ropes into the belay device. The compatible rope sizes will be printed on the frame as well. It is mainly used for sports climbing. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. In this configuration, the ATC is also able to apply a self-braking force on the rope. Hand has to check the dead part of the rope. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Petzl Verso Another variable-friction device. The information shows the rope direction and diameter. On the side of ATC Guide are visual symbols that determine which end of the rope has to go from the belay device towards the climber. Your guide hand should be closer to the ATC and your brake hand should be below your guide hand. Your safety is your responsibility. One of the ways how to lower him/her is to lift the carabiner clipped in the rope’s bight or turn the belay device. At Black Diamond, innovation never stops, and the newly updated ATC-Guide is no different, building upon the success of previous generations with its new redesign. Black Diamond Equipment Belay Rappel - Official Site. I had no idea there was a proper way to use the crampons for walking or climbing. On this blog, I will share the things that I learn about mountain climbing. Black Diamond Atc-guide by Black Diamond. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. However, if the second climber, who is belayed by this self-locking method, cannot climb over a difficult place and hang on the rope, blocks the rope by his/hers own weight and therefore it is not easy to lower him/her. £25.56 . This is the setup you will see in indoor climbing gyms. While doing this we have to check with our other hand the dead part of the rope. Brand Colour: Anthracite. Repeat the PBUS steps to continue belaying. Make sure all the buckles are doubled back (if required) and tightened. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Not good for Class C canyons. On the other hand when you pull the bottom strand you can easily move it and take the second’s rope. sign in. You will typically see an icon of a person climbing. No article or video can replace qualified instruction, practice and experience. Taurig 26 Oct 2013. Product ID: 216600 BD6200460001ALL1 793661402145 . However, for those who are climbing only on artificial walls is not the purchase of this device probably necessary. Estimation of optimal braking force is a matter of experience and practice, therefore it is recommended for beginners to seek an advice from an experienced person or, as prevention, always used the way to insert the rope recommended by the manufacturer and shown by the symbols. Black Diamond Camalot Z4 Cams, Climbing, Trad . You can use the ATC on the opposite direction, with the brake strand on the regular side. Self-locking effect is activated when the second climber puts a load on the rope. For example, for a progress of a three-man team represents the simultaneous progress of two second climbers significant saving of time. ATC Guide 2018 The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a superbly versatile belay/rappel device thanks to its smooth and grooved sides, and the "guide mode" that allows you to bring up one or two seconding climbers with ease and control.Multiple friction modes for belay and rappelGuide mode works with one or two… Weighing in at just 73 grams, the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide is a featherweight belay/abseil device that is designed for alpine use. Belay device ATC Guide ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. Holding the rope with your guide hand, slide your brake hand down the rope, away from your guide hand. It's got everything you need in a manual tube style device as a beginner. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. This device offers the same ideal characteristics as the simpler ATC XP for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for … for climbing instructors, mountain guides, or just more experienced members of any climbing team. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. Black Diamond ATC XP A true variable-friction device, the ATC-XP maintains the silky-smooth feeding of the ATC but ups the braking power thanks to it's grooved rope slots. If you aren't going to get an assisted belay device we totally recommend the ATC Guide from Black Diamond for a few reasons. Make sure there is minimal slack in the rope from the climber to your belay device. The weight of the climber will pull the rope through the belay device. The difference to the normal Black Diamond ATC is the side with which you brake the climbing rope. We recommend this, it is effective and safe method. Black Diamond Technician Climbing Harness Denim (Large) £63.53. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. 2 watching. When top rope belaying, the rope should not have any slack at any moment. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile multi-function belay device, with dual-friction belay and abseil modes. $17.96 The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. Free postage. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide and ATC-Alpine Guide conform to the safety requirements of EN 15151-2, Manual Braking Device, Type 4: device for belaying and abseiling with a function to adjust friction. When the climber falls, the belayer has to immediately get into the brake position to stop the fall. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. For some ATCs, you will see some information printed on their frames. the part of the rope under the belay device). This carabiner is then used as a lever handle for turning of the belay device. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. For them it would be unnecessarily robust and heavy. Black Diamond Equipment . For ATCs that have a regular side and a high friction side, the icons on the frame will show how to slot the rope in. £0.23. This belay device is an excellent tool primarily for those who lead people in any way, e.g. You may be curious to know that ATC was originally just a company name for a specific device. 4.9 out of 5 stars 101 ratings. Video: If we need to release self-locking of the ATC Guide we can use another carabiner as a handle and a lever for lifting the belay device. $24.27. To prevent damage to the cable, the rope should not be twisting or crossing it. All the ATC variations mentioned above can be used for top rope belaying. AUD. Color: Anthracite, Black, Fabric/Material: Aluminum, Weight: 3.1, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.7 - … $34.53. Another option for releasing is the use a small eye hole on the body of belay device, which is shaped and just large enough to accommodate a nose of regular carabiner. It is simple, light and compact. Over the years, the design of the ATC has evolved and there are now different variations in the market. It requires some strength, but not too much. The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a fine rappel device, especially for Class A and B canyons. Color: Anthracite, Black, Fabric/Material: Aluminum, Weight: 3.1, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.7 - 11 mm, With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Here you can see how to belay with an ATC: This article is intended to provide general information. To lower the climber, loosen the grip on your guide hand slightly. The rope slot where the rope is passing through should be on the side – of your dominant hand. Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device - Black. Another common aperture-style self-braking belay device is Petzl’s Reverso. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. BUY Black Diamond Atc-Guide Belay/Rappel Device. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. £22.50. This way belayer on the belay station don’t have to permanently hold the dead part of the rope in his hand, he/she just have to take up the slack in stages, as the second progress upward. The recommended way to use the ATC Guide is to have the brake strand on the high friction side. Tested by APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS - CS 60193 13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16 France. Video: Leader’s protection with the body using belay device ATC Guide. Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Most of us ended up stumbling around. Black Diamond climbing Stoppers (5-11) £48.95. The regular side will be the rope going to the climber. How to pass a belay certification? This notch increases braking effect of the belay device, because the rope is in restricted space pressed and thus achieves greater friction. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot meets the requirements of EN 15151-2, Manual braking devices, Type 2: devices for belaying and abseiling without a function to adjust friction. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Mucking about with it, seems like a lot more friction than my standard ATC. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: There are currently different variations of the ATC in the market. […] used by different companies, however, ATC has managed to stick. Belayer will appreciate this especially during the winter when he/she has numb fingers. Climb Tall Peaks is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. You can see this only on the ATC Guide (or equivalent). Free postage. The rope should be running parallel to the ATC cable. You can pass […], I remember my first time using crampons. Choose ropes that meet EN 892 and carabiners that meet EN 12275 Type H, and choose other CE certified mountaineering equipment that is compatible with this product. Like any device, it is a very good idea to learn how to get more or less friction to adapt to the problem in front of you. I was going for a glacier hike and all that the guide taught us was how to put them on. The side with the grooves is the high friction side while the smooth side is the regular side. That will lift the carabiner clipped in the rope’s bight (or turn the belay device) a release the blocking of the rope. I’m Kia! The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. Textbook for Apple Books, Google Play and Amazon books. Size: One Size Size Chart Colour: Black £25.00 . Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Black Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. One hand must always control the dead rope (i.e. Then you will connect it by locking carabiner to the harness, the carabiner will together with rubber tube of the belay device clip to a bight created by bending of the rope. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. If the climber is climbing quite fast, you have to do the PBUS steps quickly to take in the slack. We Ship To: … Some ATCs can only be used with ropes of a certain range of diameters. If you are using an ATC with a high friction side, make sure that the brake strand is on the side that you prefer (depending on your situation). If you just want a manual tube device get the ATC Guide as it'll last you years of use for many styles of climbing. Pull: Use your guide hand to pull the climber strand towards the belay device. I love climbing and these are my favorite bunch of people to climb with. 3 watching. Black Diamond Unisex ATC-Pilot … At the same time, your brake hand pulls the brake strand away from the belay device. The Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide is a more compact, lighter version of the ATC Guide, and is designed for fast and light ascents in the mountains. From carabiner clipped through a rope’s bight we pull a webbing sling through another carabiner clipped in the belay station (i.e. Make sure that the carabiner gate is on the opposite side of your brake.hand. Cable: This is a loop of wire connected to the frame. This closes the system and prevents the end of the rope from passing through the belay device. You can use either slot. €24.94. Slide: Without letting go of the rope, slide your brake hand up close to the belay device. This configuration is referred to as using the “Guide Mode” of the ATC. above the belay device). If you want to learn more about belaying a climber from above, check out these 3 methods here. This makes a good option for ATC fan looking for more breaking power. Works well with all styles of climbing ropes - 7.7 to 11 mm. In reply to Taurig: Ace, thanks, just bought the Guide. This takes in slack from the climbing rope. EN. During a belay, the angle between the climber’s strand and brake strand changes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. It is no different from belaying with a regular ATC. Brake: When your guide hand reaches the belay device, pull the brake strand down into the braking position. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. Belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC XP have grooves added to one side. Moreover, in the case of the seconding climber belay from top rope belay we can use self-locking feature of this belay device. These symbols are designed for basic and recommended position at which is the dead part of the rope (part of the rope we hold by hand) lead through a tapered notch with grooves at its walls. When belaying a single rope, you can use any one of the rope slots. ManualSearcher. Despite these grooves, however, the braking force does not come close to automatic belay devices such as the GriGri. That’s me in the middle – raising the hiking stick of victory. Colour: Black / grey . $21.96 The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. Hi! £3.95 postage. The ATC Guide 2018 is no longer produced by Black Diamond. How To Pass A Belay Certification On Your First Try, How To Use Crampons For Walking And Climbing: 3 Techniques You Must Know. Click & Collect. This brakes the rope. Here is a good overview of the different belay devices. Rope is inserted into the ATC Guide in a manner standard for this type of belay device, which means that you create a bight on the rope, and the top of the bight is inserted into one of the main longitudinal openings. To start belaying, your brake hand (this is usually your dominant hand) should be holding the end of the rope that’s not leading to the climber (I’ll call this the brake strand). The Black Diamond ATC Guide is highly versatile piece of climbing gear for belaying, abseiling, or setting up direct belays. com. > No. You will find yourself in this position when you are taking in slack in the rope. It is not load-bearing. If we feel that the rub of the rope in the belay device is too high, we can turn the belay device so the notches will point toward the active part of the rope (i.e. To avoid confusion, let’s look at each one of them. The ATC-Guide: Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, new and improved. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar … FREE 2-DAY SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $250+ exclusions apply. In this way is possible to provide a protection to either one seconding climber, as well as to two seconding climbers simultaneously. This supplemental rubber tube does not have any load-bearing function; its purpose is only to hold the belay device close to the harness (or anchor point). We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). BUY Black Diamond Atc-Guide Belay/Rappel Device. £81.50. Releasing by lifting the carabiner clipped through a rope’s bight. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. Belayer will clip the other end of the webbing sling to his/her seat harness and by sitting puts a load on it. Climb Tall Peaks is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. At 90 to 180 degrees, more braking force is generated. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Hangdogging second actually blocks his/hers rope himself/herself. The success of the device led to the name […], How to Rappel with an ATC Device - Rappelling USA, The history of the klettersteig (via ferrata), Protection on a klettersteig (via ferrata), Other equipment for klettersteig (via ferrata), Klettersteig (via ferrata) classification. You can see this only on the ATC Guide (or equivalent). Some had their pants […], link to How To Pass A Belay Certification On Your First Try, link to How To Use Crampons For Walking And Climbing: 3 Techniques You Must Know. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. The braking effect will decrease and the can be easily pulled. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Belay device ATC Guide is very versatile and is especially suitable for those climbers, who engage in more forms of climbing, that means climbers who climbs both on the rocks and in the mountains (and there even in a three-man team), and wants to have one belay device for all of these activities. This product is out of stock. It has a high-friction mode (HFM) and a regular-friction mode (RFM), giving one the ability to select the appropriate level of friction for the specific belay or rappel situation. Attachment point: This is an opening for attaching the belay device to the anchor point for a direct belay. For climbers on a budget, and especially those that like to do it all, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Check great and honest reviews! kestrelspl 26 Oct 2013. Here is a good overview of the different belay devices. This article will cover top rope belaying. When the brake strand is used on the side with the grooves, it provides more friction for braking the rope. It is suitable for ropes from 8.1mm to 11mm in diameter. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. On the high friction side, you will typically see an icon of a hand holding onto a strand of rope. The ATC-Guide is a variable friction belay/rappel device designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and mountaineering. £3.95 postage. Manual Black Diamond Guide BT. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. When using two-strand rope each strand is pulled through its own longitudinal opening in the body belay device. ATC Guide allows the protection self-locking function. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. The grooves in the metal brake the rope 3 times harder than the normal version. sign up. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. It is crucial that you never take your brake hand off the rope. Rope slots: These are the openings in the belay device to pass the ropes through. USD. Its main purpose is to keep the belay device in place during a belay. > Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? The brake strand will be at the bottom. Climbing ropes of small diameters are always inserted according to symbols to increase the braking force. RRP: £28.00: Price: £25.00 & FREE Delivery: You Save: £3.00 (11%) New (3) from £25.00 + FREE Shipping. At 0 degrees, there is minimal friction and no braking force at all. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. If you are after just one belay device to do everything then the ATC Guide could well be the one for you.